Between the threat of mosquitoes and slightly cooler temperatures, the motivation to get out of ones sleeping bag and tent generally tends to lean towards the unmotivated side. Knowing that the first few miles are downhill made it a bit more inviting to sleep in a bit as well. After packing up slowly I took the ridge down in the morning and saw Benson Lake in the distance in the morning sun. When I got down to the bottom there was only one way to go...right back up!
My laziness in the morning put me behind Typo and Wolverine but I soon passed Typo as he was getting water and the Michigan Wolverine and I hiked up and over and followed the stream gradually down. Water was slightly limited and I missed the early source to meet up with Spins for lunch so I was going to push down to the bottom for lunch and figure she'd meet me there. Halfway down though I found a great source and stopped there figuring Spins and Typo would catch up for lunch; Wolverine motored onward. Twenty minute go by, then I took a nap, then over an hour passes and I thought to myself, well damn I know I don't hike that fast, I wonder what's up maybe the two of them stopped at the source before to eat.
Then Typo showed up. He didn't think that both Wolverine and myself was ahead of him because he didn't see us pass and that Spins thought I was behind her somewhere on the trail and was going to wait about a mile back for a bit then leave a note! So she asked Typo if he saw either of us and he said most definitely not and that he was certain both of us didn't pass, which was partially true he didn't see us pass because he was getting water. So I waited around another twenty or so minutes and Spins showed up saying that she figured I was ahead but Typo was certain I wasn't. Ah miscommunication at it's best.
We all ended up at the same place though, Wilma Lake which was infested with mosquitoes but a huge fire made it a little bit more tolerable. The Michigan Wolverine self-exiled himself near the lake because his snores are legendary. He was walking back to the fire from the lake and said that the fish were biting out there and seeing how I acquired a fishing rod, it was time to catch second dinner. Five minutes later I had a decent sized rainbow trout hooked, to the disbelief of others, an promptly killed and gutted it. The murder was recorded on Spins phone(as she put it). It was a pretty shoddy job due to the mosquitoes EVERYWHERE and a dull Swiss army knife. I fried up the trout in sesame oil over the fire and Wolverine and Typo took the first bites. Typo said it was too fishy for him and Wolverine ate the rest of that half. I munched down the other half and to be honest it was pretty good, if I had a better knife and less of a mosquito induced panic mode, I could have had a bit more of the filet cut but better luck next time. So I went to sleep covered in the scent of freshly cooked fish praying that I didn't get destroyed by a bear overnight.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Back to 20 Mile Days - Mile 968.5 - 7/15
So at Glen Auldin last night Spins and I were talking about pulling a string of 20 mile days to get to our next resupply at Bridgeport in roughly 70 miles. Waking up, Typo and the Michigan Wolverine were like have fun with that but then later joined the bandwagon and also set out to push some 20 mile days.
The beginning of the day seemed fairly smooth except we didn't have a water source for 8 whole miles past camp! This was the longest stretch without water for quite some time and it was a laughable thought because after hiking 20 mile waterless sections, I felt like I got this well under control. The first half of the day was not was I cared about it went by fairly easy (especially because this area is so beautiful), the second half on the other hand included a significant climb up a ridge and the end of the day would be hiking up over Benson Pass.
The first climb went rather well. Yosemite's trail definitely has large sections of just massive rock walking due to it's exposed geology so climbing up large rock sections, in my opinion, is more fun. It's also more strenuous but hard hiking makes the scenery even more rewarding. Going up Benson Pass at the end of a 20 mile day was slightly straining because I had been hiking strong uphill the whole day which left me pretty spent for the pass. When I made it up the view from where I had hiked was well worth it. After making it up, I hung around for the other so we could start heading down to look for ample camping around Smedberg Lake . The perfect spot made itself present and we all set up camp and got a fire going to end the day. All four of us made it through the first 20 mile day any of us had done in a short while. We'll see how sore in the morning everyone is for twenty day number two!
The beginning of the day seemed fairly smooth except we didn't have a water source for 8 whole miles past camp! This was the longest stretch without water for quite some time and it was a laughable thought because after hiking 20 mile waterless sections, I felt like I got this well under control. The first half of the day was not was I cared about it went by fairly easy (especially because this area is so beautiful), the second half on the other hand included a significant climb up a ridge and the end of the day would be hiking up over Benson Pass.
The first climb went rather well. Yosemite's trail definitely has large sections of just massive rock walking due to it's exposed geology so climbing up large rock sections, in my opinion, is more fun. It's also more strenuous but hard hiking makes the scenery even more rewarding. Going up Benson Pass at the end of a 20 mile day was slightly straining because I had been hiking strong uphill the whole day which left me pretty spent for the pass. When I made it up the view from where I had hiked was well worth it. After making it up, I hung around for the other so we could start heading down to look for ample camping around Smedberg Lake . The perfect spot made itself present and we all set up camp and got a fire going to end the day. All four of us made it through the first 20 mile day any of us had done in a short while. We'll see how sore in the morning everyone is for twenty day number two!
Tuolumne Meadows and the Whoa Nellie Deli - Mile 948.4 - 7/14
I woke up with a dream of the Whoa Nellie Deli fresh in my mind. For hundreds if miles I have been hyping up this place for a specific reason. When I was in Big Bear, Ca oh so long ago, a man named Jim gave Spins and I a ride back to the trail in his 8-wheeled search and rescue vehicle. Well Jim told us to promise him two things: one being to call if we need help near Big Bear and two to go to the Whoa Nellie Deli near Tuolumne because the food is awesome for being inside a Mobile Gas station.
We held to our promise and when we got to Tuolumne Meadows we hitched a ride from an Italian couple visiting the states 19 miles east on route 120 to the Mobile Gas station. There was a short order restaurant inside the place and I got the fish tacos which was suggested to me by a wonderful couple I met in Tuolumne Meadows who graciously gave us fruit and string cheese right before we started hitching to the deli. Now the menu was mostly meat and fish dishes but they were all sorts of expensive and rare items like wild buffalo meatloaf and ahi sashimi. The food came with a decent pricetag as well but the novelty of the food in it's location was satisfying enough for me. I got a few extra items from the gas station for my resupply and it a hitch back to the trail immediately.
The Tuolumne Meadows area was in the heart of Yosemite National Park and it was swarmed with touristy types. I didn't have the heart to go down into the valley near Half Dome, I heard it was like Disneyland in the woods. That kind of tourist trap made me shutter on the inside. We passes Lembert Dome when getting back on the PCT and it was a cool sight. Trucking on towards camp was a scenic hike with waterfalls and these massive dome mountain formations of rock that Yosemite is known for. I am really enjoying the scenery in this section so far and the mosquitoes that are supposed to be plaguing me seem to be nonexistent. Arriving at Glen Aulin camp was an interesting experience as well. There were tent/huts for dayhikers , what looked to be park benches everywhere, and hoards of people. Now this is one of the only campsites for miles and my guidebook said it's bear infested so I was excited to see that interaction play out at night. We ran into Typo, Hotwing, ED and the Michigan Wolverine as well as multiple other hikers we know and had an awesome campfire and hung out till late; my favorite way to end the day. No bears that night though, a shame really, I was hoping to see the panic and fear of everyone when the bears came in to knock around some bear canisters. Better luck next time!
We held to our promise and when we got to Tuolumne Meadows we hitched a ride from an Italian couple visiting the states 19 miles east on route 120 to the Mobile Gas station. There was a short order restaurant inside the place and I got the fish tacos which was suggested to me by a wonderful couple I met in Tuolumne Meadows who graciously gave us fruit and string cheese right before we started hitching to the deli. Now the menu was mostly meat and fish dishes but they were all sorts of expensive and rare items like wild buffalo meatloaf and ahi sashimi. The food came with a decent pricetag as well but the novelty of the food in it's location was satisfying enough for me. I got a few extra items from the gas station for my resupply and it a hitch back to the trail immediately.
The Tuolumne Meadows area was in the heart of Yosemite National Park and it was swarmed with touristy types. I didn't have the heart to go down into the valley near Half Dome, I heard it was like Disneyland in the woods. That kind of tourist trap made me shutter on the inside. We passes Lembert Dome when getting back on the PCT and it was a cool sight. Trucking on towards camp was a scenic hike with waterfalls and these massive dome mountain formations of rock that Yosemite is known for. I am really enjoying the scenery in this section so far and the mosquitoes that are supposed to be plaguing me seem to be nonexistent. Arriving at Glen Aulin camp was an interesting experience as well. There were tent/huts for dayhikers , what looked to be park benches everywhere, and hoards of people. Now this is one of the only campsites for miles and my guidebook said it's bear infested so I was excited to see that interaction play out at night. We ran into Typo, Hotwing, ED and the Michigan Wolverine as well as multiple other hikers we know and had an awesome campfire and hung out till late; my favorite way to end the day. No bears that night though, a shame really, I was hoping to see the panic and fear of everyone when the bears came in to knock around some bear canisters. Better luck next time!
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Thousand Island Lake and Donahue Pass - Mile 937 - 7/13
I got off to an average start this morning to tackle the rest of the uphill towards Thousand Island Lake. I was excited because after looking at the lake from the topographic maps I saw that it was going to be something quite scenic.
I arrived up at the lake and scenic it was. The lake had partitioned islands throughout with the sharp peak of Mount Ritter in the background. I stopped for quite a while and ate, taking in all the view. Heading up past the lake I ran into Bouncer, a middle-aged guy I've hiked around for quite some time who slept by the lake last night. He said he was kept awake by a bear for most of the night. Bouncer had also hiked this area previously so he told me all about the areas history and how John Muir was the first person to summit Mt. Ritter. It's nice to get outside information about an area every once in a while instead of the usual trail info like the elevation, the mileage, and the closest water source. Actually getting background information makes it easier to remember certain places like this and I appreciate the place more. Donahue Pass was a potentially sketchy situation because for the first time in probably the whole trip thunder was shaking in the background and the dark clouds were rolling in. After lunch it started to drizzle and that was plenty motivation to get moving. As I was going up, the pass had a clearing of clouds and up an over I went. I went down till dark and found a place to sleep for the night. Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow and the Whoa Nellie Deli which I have been looking forward to for hundreds of miles!
I arrived up at the lake and scenic it was. The lake had partitioned islands throughout with the sharp peak of Mount Ritter in the background. I stopped for quite a while and ate, taking in all the view. Heading up past the lake I ran into Bouncer, a middle-aged guy I've hiked around for quite some time who slept by the lake last night. He said he was kept awake by a bear for most of the night. Bouncer had also hiked this area previously so he told me all about the areas history and how John Muir was the first person to summit Mt. Ritter. It's nice to get outside information about an area every once in a while instead of the usual trail info like the elevation, the mileage, and the closest water source. Actually getting background information makes it easier to remember certain places like this and I appreciate the place more. Donahue Pass was a potentially sketchy situation because for the first time in probably the whole trip thunder was shaking in the background and the dark clouds were rolling in. After lunch it started to drizzle and that was plenty motivation to get moving. As I was going up, the pass had a clearing of clouds and up an over I went. I went down till dark and found a place to sleep for the night. Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow and the Whoa Nellie Deli which I have been looking forward to for hundreds of miles!
Leaving Mammoth - Mile 920 - 7/12
It was difficult, I admit it but I spent my time well in Mammoth (mostly stuffing my face with food) and it was time to take the shuttle to Red's Meadow and get back on trail. I started out in the early afternoon and it was a gradual gain in elevation for a while. While going up the view to the left was of a beautiful mountain range and a few lakes. Shadow lake in particular stood out because it had a massive waterfall draining into the valley. Eventually the trail got steeper and the sky grew darker. I ended up camping with Papa Smurf and his girlfriend who was out for a few days. I met Papa Smurf at Muir Pass and he's quite a character. The man's probably in his late fifties/ early sixties and hike fast and long mile days. He has also done the AT before as well and was nice to talk to at the end of the day. 
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Red's Meadow and Mammoth Lakes - Mile 906.6 - 7/9-12
So I hauled ass to Red's Meadow and arrived around three in the afternoon. The trail to there was recently declared passable. The windstorm from October wrecked this area and the result was more massive trees on the ground than still standing. Had it not been cleared by the awesome work of many crews it would have been a jungle gym nightmare for quite a few miles.
Red's Meadow has a general store, with some limited food and beer, and a 'restaurant'. I got some ice cream than hit the restaurant, my desire for a burger was so great that quality had no bearing on my decision to eat here. After looking at the menu and prices my logic and reasoning skills should have said Hell No! Not a chance 11.50 for a double cheeseburger! But I was way to hungry to give a shit. Goodbye money hello false sense of burger satisfaction. I was disappointed but full so mission accomplished.
Spins and I looked around and after our crap meal said screw camping here Mammoth here we come! We took the last bus down to town luckily so it was meant to be. I stuffed my face with as much food as my body would allow while in town and also got a few other things I needed. Mammoth is a wonderful ski-town with fantastic public transportation for such a small place. I thoroughly enjoyed this town but am leaving shortly back to the PCT to enter the Yosemite portion of the trail. I heard Yosemite mosquitoes are far worse than anything I have experienced thus far paired with the frequent bear issues there it should be a fun time. I'll update my blog when I get service next hopefully soon but it may not be for 100-200 miles so hang tight.
Red's Meadow has a general store, with some limited food and beer, and a 'restaurant'. I got some ice cream than hit the restaurant, my desire for a burger was so great that quality had no bearing on my decision to eat here. After looking at the menu and prices my logic and reasoning skills should have said Hell No! Not a chance 11.50 for a double cheeseburger! But I was way to hungry to give a shit. Goodbye money hello false sense of burger satisfaction. I was disappointed but full so mission accomplished.
Spins and I looked around and after our crap meal said screw camping here Mammoth here we come! We took the last bus down to town luckily so it was meant to be. I stuffed my face with as much food as my body would allow while in town and also got a few other things I needed. Mammoth is a wonderful ski-town with fantastic public transportation for such a small place. I thoroughly enjoyed this town but am leaving shortly back to the PCT to enter the Yosemite portion of the trail. I heard Yosemite mosquitoes are far worse than anything I have experienced thus far paired with the frequent bear issues there it should be a fun time. I'll update my blog when I get service next hopefully soon but it may not be for 100-200 miles so hang tight.
Selden and Silver Pass - Mile 878.3 and 883.5 - 7/7-8
Leaving the hot springs sucked! I had a bunch of heavy food and the side trail back to the PCT was strait up. When I went down the side trail to get to the ranch all I thought of was, damn this is going to suck to go back up. It did but I was back on the PCT with food to make it to Mammoth Lakes. Going up Selden Pass was pretty gradual and it topped out a bit under 11,000 feet. Going up was enjoyable, passing by lakes under a pine tree canopy which felt more AT like than PCT. I cruised over Selden and had lunch on the other side at one of the multiple lakes there. Heading down was easy but before the day was over I still had to hike up and over bear ridge and camp down close to the VVR ferry junction (another ranch located on a lake). It would put the day around 20 miles and I was getting tired before even climbing the ridge. The climb up sucked and took a lot out of me physically and mentally. You stop for more than a minute and you become swarmed with mosquitoes. Welcome to mosquito-land! There should have been a banner because from this point forward the word is that they are everywhere and pervasively intruding on any peace of mind you have for the next few hundred miles. Oh yay! When I reached the top of bear ridge I ran down the switchbacks on the otherside to camp(also mosquito infested hell). It was later and getting dark fast so I made a fire to deal with the bugs, set everything up and had a big ol' chilli mac and beef meal. It tasted good but I knew I'd pay for it the next day, those mountain house meal tear you up on the inside.
And tear me up it did! The next morning I got up and started my way up to Silver Pass. I farted chilli mac the entire way up. I met a ranger around my age early and talked to him for a bit; a lot of people are out doing trail repair due to the massive blowdowns from last years storm and he was 'supervising'. Going up Silver had some really steep parts but it was a scenic pass which looked physically like early in the Sierra's, sandy with sequoias and large boulders. At this point, the passes are lower and I am not as high up so the ecosystem is similar to when I first entered the Sierra's at mid-elevation. I trucked up another uphill after going down Silver to Virginia Lake, shaped like the state and it was massive, beautiful, and full of marmots hanging out. I kept moving until I got to Purple Lake where I found a campspot and made a fire. The mosquitoes still hung around the fire they must have been some super-mosquito breed that wasn't affected by the smoke. What the hell. As it got late they slowly tapered off and I could enjoy eating dinner. Tomorrow was to Red's Meadow, a middle of nowhere packstation that busses you to Mammoth Lakes, CA. The plan is to stealth camp there then take the bus to town in the morning and take two days of downtime, we'll see if I'm disciplined enough not to go into town the second I get there.
And tear me up it did! The next morning I got up and started my way up to Silver Pass. I farted chilli mac the entire way up. I met a ranger around my age early and talked to him for a bit; a lot of people are out doing trail repair due to the massive blowdowns from last years storm and he was 'supervising'. Going up Silver had some really steep parts but it was a scenic pass which looked physically like early in the Sierra's, sandy with sequoias and large boulders. At this point, the passes are lower and I am not as high up so the ecosystem is similar to when I first entered the Sierra's at mid-elevation. I trucked up another uphill after going down Silver to Virginia Lake, shaped like the state and it was massive, beautiful, and full of marmots hanging out. I kept moving until I got to Purple Lake where I found a campspot and made a fire. The mosquitoes still hung around the fire they must have been some super-mosquito breed that wasn't affected by the smoke. What the hell. As it got late they slowly tapered off and I could enjoy eating dinner. Tomorrow was to Red's Meadow, a middle of nowhere packstation that busses you to Mammoth Lakes, CA. The plan is to stealth camp there then take the bus to town in the morning and take two days of downtime, we'll see if I'm disciplined enough not to go into town the second I get there.
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