Day 66 - Knapsack Col Awesomeness

August 24th

11.4 Miles

Little Seneca Lake

A pattern has emerged here in Wyoming: clouds by noon, rain at 2:30, cleared up sunshine a couple hours later, then rain all night. It rained all night. We got up our usual time and everywhere was wet which was a concern because of the bouldering-type hiking we'd be doing if we were to hike up and over the Knapsack Col alternate. After breakfast, Spins and I decided to go for it, I mean its supported to be the most beautiful section for the whole CDT(even though its technically not on it). We hiked down and to the left of Peak Lake, crossed over and started on rock scree trail some of which required strait down to the base of the lake maneuvering. Then on the other side of the lake we started our ascent towards Knapsack Col. The lake was at 10,500' and the pass was at 12,280' so we had a bit to climb in a little over two miles. It started out gradual with multiple trails to the left and right of the higher lakes and we chose the central trail after losing it up and to the left.

We continued slower as the grade began to rise and after a bit the trail mostly ceased to exist besides multiple dirt 'paths' leading here there and everywhere up towards the pass. Around ten in the morning the clouds rolled in and it looked as if storms may be earlier today then usual. If i so much as saw or heard thunder or lightning I wouldn't have continued up but luckily the cloud kind of just hung around then dissipated. We headed over to the right up a valley of boulders where we rock hopped up to the base before the really steep part of the climb. Now when I say ready steep I mean 60-70 degrees of loose rock. As a huge understatement we'll say it was pretty sketchy. 

Going up was ridiculous and really challenging because there wasn't any trail to follow. Towards the top it got super steep and Spins and I overshot the pass to the right an extra forty feet up or so. When we climbed down to Knapsack Col the view behind me and in front was breathtaking. 

Spins and I saw another couple of older guys snacking up here as we did the same and they headed down Knapsack Col first to the left of the glacier which looked like it basically just dropped of the face of the earth. It did...

Literally a strait down rock scramble with plenty of loose rocks was the route down about a thousand feet. You can see those two tiny dot to the left of Spins, those are the two guys ahead of (or I guess below) us. Spins freaking cruised down this thing fearlessly and passed those two before reaching the bottom. Meanwhile I was taking my careful precious time because this was quite possibly the sketchiest hiking I have ever done. We're talking dirt butt sliding strait down parts and grabbing for rock to stop you. It was ridiculous. After getting down the first section we cruised across a dirty glacier melt and over and around a knob to the left. We continued our boulder hopping down and over some more until we reached the river that fed the Titcomb Lakes.

We ate lunch around two as the storms clouds were building for their daily routine. By this point we had hiked a whopping four or so miles but given the difficulty and strenuousness I felt super accomplished...and exhausted. We hiked down to and around the lakes only for it to start hailing violently with thunder cracking above head for about an hour. At that point, it was just to much ridiculousness for one day and I was laughing at how absurd but awesome the day had been. The sky cleared the second I broke down to put my rain pants on, go figure and we hiked in an exhausted zombie-like state for the rest of the afternoon past some beautiful lakes and mountains around every turn until we stumbled onto the Seneca Lake Trail which will lead us into the town of Pinedale tomorrow. Today was one of those days you'll remember forever and J.Ley was right, Knapsack Col is quite possibly the most amazing part of the CDT (well not technically).

Day 65 - The Northern Wind River Range

August 23rd

18.4 Miles

Peak Lake

It POURED last night. So much so there was a small puddle in the bottom of the tent in the morning. We packed up and left the campground and ran into two hiker out for a couple days and we hiked with them for the first two or a miles. They are actually from Glenmoore which is fifteen minutes from where I grew up! It a small world when you can be in Wyoming and run into people who live so close on the other side of the country. Spins and I chose to go around the other side of North Green River Lake then cross over to the CDT. When crossing we looked over to see this:

That crazy looking mountain is called Squaretop which we walked past as we continued to follow the Green River upstream. When we reached the end of the valley we took lunch and then right after it began to rain. We started up switchbacks that took us up 1000' and continued climbing some more. 

We came to a junction where we left the official CDT to go up towards Vista Pass and eventually the Knapsack Col route. In the way up Spins and I ran into a couple heading down and Spins instantly recognized him as someone we met briefly who thruhiked the PCT last year. We headed to Vista Lake and snacked while the rain picked up again. At this point we were at ten thousand feet and crossed around a mountain and followed the Green River yet again up towards a pass which was covered in boulders everywhere. The trail faded out and that's when an issue started and cairns on boulders started to appear so we naturally followed them. We came to a split where cairns lead to the left up boulders on the ridge or to the right in the center of the pit. I stubbornly and confidently said to the center because it looked like that on the map but Spins felt up and to the left was the right way. We went my way...definitely should have went Spins' way. We spent the next hour and a half climbing boulders up the valley because we couldn't/didn't see the trail up and to the left on the ridge above us. It was a hell of a workout and towards the end very frustrating especially when 3/4's the way up we saw the trail. I don't know why I don't just listen to Spins' opinion because 99% of the time she's right. After that tiring debacle we came up to Dale lake which was beautiful and then cruised over and down to Peak Lake right at the base of the Knapsack Col route which we plan on taking unless the weather is bad in the morning otherwise we'll cross a pass and head strait over back to the CDT which is beautiful as well but Knapsack Col has been called the most amazing place on the whole CDT. It does involve scrambling up boulders to the top of the pass at two eve thousand feet though but luckily(but not really) we got some practice  this afternoon due to my idiocy. Maybe we'll get lucky and it won't rain tonight!

Day 64 - Round the 'Fire' and Through the Lightning

August 22nd

20.6 Miles

Green Lake Campground

This morning started off wet. It rained right when I was ready to get up so I slept in a bit and got out of camp by 8:20. It was wet going around the lake though brush but it was fantastic watching the sun hit the most over the lake to the east and the meadow to the west. We hiked around the lake and then up through the woods over to wide open sagebrush plains. I decided to take the Ley route through the center of the plains up to a lake for about a mile instead of the official trail which wound uphill and far over to the left. About two-thirds the way in we hit willow bushes in a meadow which meant wet muddy feet and the willow was wet from last night so we ended up soaked and then had to hike up a bit to the lake. I wasn't terribly happy I had to get my feet wet but Spins was a bit more unhappy. She hates bushwhacking because it ends up being difficult and a mess(and sometimes slower then taking the actual trail). This one was definitely a mess. We took a snack break at the lake then continued up through some woods then back out again and made it about a mile before Gunsight Pass where we took lunch. 

After lunch is when the showdowns began. As we climbed up towards the pass large herds of cattle appeared and they were hostile at best. I picked up a rock to arm myself against any cow ballsy enough to think about charging. They were all on trail and as we approached ran off trail and started aggressively moo-ing. Dark clouds appeared overhead and thunder was starting so I didn't really have the patience for them and motored past. Up at the lake right before the pass more cows appears and the rain started. We did our little showdown dance just like earlier with them running off them moo-ing all aggressively again. We made it up gunsight pass with lightning and thunder cracking over on distance mountains and across the valley on the ridge we could see the closed trail and thousand of scorched acres. The rains from the past two days and the work of wildfire fighters out out almost all the fire but the trail was wrecked and the chance of charred trees falling down kept the trail closed. The detour was a threeish mile hike thought the valley due west of the burn then a twoish mile hike down south across a river onto a dirt road for three miles which led back down to the trail at Green River campground. 

During my way down to the detour flashes of light from thunderbolts filled the sky intermittently and loud, close, booming thunder echoed. Thankfully I was in the trees and losing elevation but it was thrilling watching the lightning hit the mountain peaks in the distance. The detour was't marked except for a stick arrow and faint track of grass that had been walked on. After about a half mile it became a trail and followed the creek over until we headed down into the next valley which is home to the Green River Lakes and Squaretop and Flattop mountains. When the sky clears and the clouds parted it was a pretty sight. We crossed over the roughly 40 ft wide Green River and walks the road down the camp sight but not before seeing a buffalo!!! My first of the trip and be was a big old guy just resting in a grass meadow chopping around. We made it to the camp sight around 7:30 and couldn't resist the fine luxuries of privies, picnic tables, and bear boxes so we called it a day.

Day 63 - Moose and Thunder

August 21st

19.5 Miles

Lake of the Woods

This morning got off to a sore start due to all the extra (and most likely unnecessary) food I'm carrying and today's mission is to eat as much as possible. I started hiking around 8:30 and went up to S-something Pass. We turned and continued our fun uphill adventuring. The trail did its best to disappear as it pleased and when we reached Leeds creek the trail was actually there!! Except it was heading away from where it should go which was along/following the creek. Spins and I crossed the creek and took lunch. Thunder clouds grew and let out a few cracks when we finished eating and our route along the creek was trailess. Then it started to rain but we prepared beforehand and stayed dry. 

The sun came out as we finished the rest of the cross country route. On the way up to a jeep road we came across two big ol'moose and they ran away up the road we needed to take so we got to chase them for a bit. We took a jeep road up to and around Fish Lake Mountain along the divide which bypassed the official route below for good reason. The official CDT down there, I had learned, was covered in blowdowns so much so that people consider it the messiest section of trail on the whole CDT! That was enough to keep me up on the jeep road which followed scenic high desert plains with the winds in the background. Unfortunately it was raining there and to the right of us and to the left of us. We knew it was only a matter of time and we caught some lightning further away which was a bit concerning because it was open plains all around. The rain came and we hustled down the hill and back up towards Lake of the Woods. When we reached the road which on the map leads us the lake we came upon a huge arrow and new CDT markers into the woods. We stupidly followed them and instead of following the flat road around the hill it went up and then down to the lake which was frustrating. When we got to a decent camp site by the lake we set up in the rain and as I put the finishing touches on hanging the food I heard some big noise running behind me. Two more moose, a mother and juvenile, ran behind me towards me and I yelled over to Spins, 'Moose!!! They are running towards ya!' she got out and saw them run into the meadow. The clouds are lingering tonight and the thunder is distant...oh and it started raining again. Let it rain out now so I can have a dry morning.

Day 58 - Smoke and Shortcuts

August 15th

22.1 Miles

8ish Miles to Togwotee Lodge

Woke up this morning and I thought about opening my tent but I lied back down instead and about two minutes later a bird flew right into my side entrance. No damage to my tent and the bird was nowhere to be seen so must not of hurt him either. 

As we hiked through the meadow before our climb for the day I caught glimpse of a black bear cub running uphill away from us but did not see any sign of the mother which at first was a bit unnerving but then it wasn't because it meant mama bear wasn't coming down to check things out. Along the trail this morning and yesterday afternoon/evening there was to a of trees scratched and bear poop so I figured it was a matter of time before I saw something. 

The climb out of the meadow was steep but not terribly taxing and we made it up to over ten thousand feet with 360 degree views....of smoke. There's an active fire somewhere near the Yellowstone border because we passed a closed trail due to fire there and the nice jagged and rugged mountains of the Teton wilderness were now covered by smoke. I was a little pissed but the parting of the waters was just down the hill so that excitement kept my day alright.

The parting of the waters is a mountain pass that has a spring which becomes a river headwater and down the mountain, the river parts and one drainage leads to the Atlantic Ocean and the other to the Pacific Ocean. The creeks are partly named Atlantic and Pacific Creek. The wind picked up as we flew down the mountain and into Two Ocean Meadow and the smoke cleared somewhat and the mountains were in full show. There was also a seemingly close and active for smoke plume at the end of the mountains ridge. The CDT goes away from where the fire smoke was into another meadow but curves back and turns into the next valley towards the potential fire. That was not a problem for us though because at that turn the Ley maps showed a shorter alternate strait ahead on a quote 'horse superhighway' which is basically a huge wide horse trail which in some places has around six parallel trails forming said highway. In addition, we have been hiking through what looks to be burn area from last year so idon't  think to much more can catch on fire. The alternate will get us into Dubois earlier and there is a lodge at the highway which has a five dollar soak as long as you want in the hot tub and get a shower deal so the alternate looks like a win-win situation compared to the official route. Tomorrow town and maybe some hot tub soaking!!

Day 57 - Leaving Yellowstone

August 14th

20 Miles

Five Miles Outta Yellowstone

After a lateish night of hiking and staying up with Flyboxer, Raffle, and a nobo named Beef Stew everyone woke up and got out a little later than usual. Spins and I left camp last around  twenty of ten which may or may not be a record. It didn't matter though because the maps looked like the day would be mostly along the river and in the valley. Once we started hiking I realized it was UP the valley along the river for a majority of the day. We traveled though burn area pretty much all day along the snake river which meanders nicely in the valley with a clear to gray-blue hue in deeper spots. Unfortunately, it was a fording day so I crossed numerous rivers getting my feet wet and having super wrinkly feet which resulted in a couple new blisters. Nothing to bad and nothing even remotely close to the foot craziness of Glacier. Three quarters thought the day we left Yellowstone and crossed into the Teton Wilderness and found camp shortly after dinner. Considering the late start getting twenty miles in today was relatively painless. Tomorrow morning I get to head down to the partying of the waters which I have been looking forward to to the whole trip!

Day 54 - Goodbye Idahell, Hello Wyoming and Yellowstone!!

August 11th

28 Miles

Summit Lake

We got out of Mack's Inn a little past eight this morning but with plenty of road walking ahead of us our pace should be a bit quicker. We cruised on the main road and turned into Fish Creek road which was gravel and sandlike which was a pain to walk on. Countless more ATV's flew by as we walked, many of which where driven by kids who looked to be seven or eight with their dads riding on the back. We lucked out when a family who has a summer home up here stopped and gave us water for this stretch because there was an eighteen mile stretch without water and they thought the spring we needed to get water from was dry. When we turned onto the next road which was dug out, bermed, and closed to motorized vehicles we realized we could make it past the park boundary and to the first campsite in Yellowstone and more importantly into Wyoming!! Spins called the park backcountry office and we were able to jump on another CDT hikers permit for the lake which put us in a way more comfortable position to get to Old Faithful Village tomorrow. A good portion of today was flat and old burn areas from a huge devastating fire in '88 so spins and I put on some tunes, put our heads down, and cooked it to the lake by 7:15 where Flyboxer of all people was sitting by the lake eating dinner. We were put on his permit and it was good to see him again, its been since Darby. He didn't take the cut off so we caught up to him and Dan showed up later as well so we should have a nice little group through Yellowstone because I feel like we'll all end up grouped at campsites together. Yay Old Faithful tomorrow and yay Wyoming finally a new state!!!!!! What a great and successful day.

Day 53 - Down to the Land of ATV's

August 10th

20 Miles 

Mack's Inn Campground

So last night at Lillian Lake during dinner Spins and I saw a mama moose and baby across the lake. I immediately thought bear because my glasses were off and I only saw big black blurry blob but after second glance saw the skinny legs of the moose.

We were up really early this morning and out of camp around 6:40 and started up the valley along Hells Roaring Creek. The beginning was bushwhacky but after crossing over and heading up we found some tracks and trail occasionally. At the top, the headwater of this creek is actually the most isolated source of the entire Missouri/Mississippi rivers which I found really cool. We crossed over the hill down to make-your-own-path land until coming to Sawtelle Peak trail which came out to the road. The roadwalk all downhill was dusty thanks to a seemingly unlimited number of ATV's of all shapes and sizes a lot of which I've never even seen before like the four seater ATV. When we got to Sawtelle, Spins and I destroyed Subway and headed over to the gas station which had a crowd there. It was customer appreciate day and they gave away free hotdogs, brats, and soda as well as rattling off prizes. Dan, who we hiked out of Lima with, ended up winning a grill and turning around and selling it for a hundred bucks which was hilarious because out of all the people there the hiker won the grill. I packed beer down to Mack's Inn because they sold none there and we got  a campsite and had a nice fire for once. Another hopefully early morning to kris to camp at the border of Yellowstone and then cows into Wyoming the next morning!!!

Day 52 - Only Crappy Water

August 9th

19 Miles

Lillian Lake

It was another night graced by the howl of coyotes. The rain ended about two hours after getting packed in and this morning was gray and dreary but it wasn't raining...yet. We headed out our normal time around eight and got to moving up with drizzle here and there. After we left the United States Sheep Research Station land I realized we should have headed down to the water and not up to the divide. Up at the top we checks our maps and realized it was the last on trail water for around thirteen miles. Now we had to scale down a quarter of a mile to the water so I dropped my pack, covered it with a rain shell and headed on down. Then it started raining. When we got to the spot there was no trail to be found or water either which meant I had a little under a liter for the next thirteen miles. As I sulked up the hill back to my pack I heard a grrrrr from behind the bushes near my pack. It scared the shit out of me but it was just a nobo named Puck who could't resist the opportunity. I thought it was pretty funny and we swapped info on upcoming trail stuff and I found out there were a few little lakes ontop of old open pit miles with mediocre (most likely heavy metal laden) water in four or five miles. What a relief sort of....

Spins and I got truckin on up the mountain and reached the first few pit mine lakes which were bone dry. We thought we were screwed eight more miles past here until water and I had a quarter of a liter. We accepted our fate and moseyed on upward until we saw two higher 'lakes' that were a grayish  color. Two liters of metal laden mining water won't kill me so I tanked up. The rest of the hiking for the morning was slightly bland until we turned the corner up high on the Taylor mountains ridge and looked back:

The view was nice and dry but all around the mountain was flat arid land with a few reservoirs here and there. Th contrast between the mountains and the land in the distance made the Centennial Range stick out even more. 

We ate lunch coming down this ridge and cruise to a spot where Pick said a cistern would be, I think. We didn't remember the exact details and were dehydrated as hell but the next water was only a couple miles ahead. We spent a solid half hour looking and snacking and didn't find it. That's when I saw an alternate up and over the next hill down to Blair Lake. Well when we took off huge storm clouds were thundering and growing behind and above us. Perfect time to climb to the top of a treeless hill. We made it up without any issue following old ATV track which was the old CDT at one point and the lost that trail coming down. We came to a cliff and the lake was far below down and the first thing in my head was 'when am I going to learn that alternates usually cost more time than the actual trail.' We found the track again after some maneuvering only to lose it again and find it again and eventually made it down to the lake. This was the first decent water all day and we were around seventeen miles in. We drank and tanked up and headed over down and up to Lillian Lake which is the start of the Mack's Inn cutoff. Eighteen miles from here there's a subway and twenty an ice cream parlor, tomorrow morning's going to be an early start.

Day 51 - Berries, Blowdowns, Burns......and Rain

August 8th

20 Miles

In Trees Past Dirt Road Intersection 

Last night as we were falling asleep we had the pleasure of listening to a coyote pack nearby for about an hour, our first of the trip! Two nobo's camped around us and when I got up they were still there (to my amazement). I guess I am starting to cross paths with more relaxed hikers which is more my style of hiking. Five more nobos showed up this morning at camp after I was done breakfast and packed up and we swapped trail info for a bit so I didn't get out of camp until around 8:15. 

This morning the hiking went quickly and transitioned into burn area that was pretty wrecked with multiple trail leading all over the place. My maps, GPS, and info from the nobos this morning made it manageable to get through but a pain in the butt because of multiple blowdowns all over. It didn't keep us from getting misplaced though. We went up on a saddle as opposed to around and found ourselves looking for the trail and found it to the southwest. We followed it and realized it was a side trail in the wrong direction so we headed back up and then followed a small game track the  bushwhacked down until we hit the trail again. 

We cruised downhill and then ate lunch ate water and followed the trail which transitioned to a dense boulder laden forest near Aldous Lake. The forest gave way to raspberries, thimbleberries, huckleberries, and I think bramble berries. I ate my  fair share but kept my hiking pace up because clouds were stating to form, thicken, and grey. At the end of the day, Spins and I hiked into a meadow valley full of pussy willow grabbed water for the night and kept hiking. We ate dinner around 7pm four tenths of a mile from twenty miles for the day and watched rain fall all around us. I tried to make dinner as quick as possible and right when I finished cooking and had my wrap in my hands the rain started. I ate super fast packed and covered everything, hiked up the hill to a nice treed in spot and set up for the night. It's still raining a little but it shouldn't last all night. 

Day 50 - Outta Lima

August 7th

16.8 Miles

Rock Spring

After hanging out late watching junk TV, this morning left me a little groggy. Panama got in late last night and we all went over to the diner for breakfast and a bunch of coffee. Breakfast was delicious and Spins and I finished off the rest of the ice cream we had yesterday for desert. We hung around the motel for another hiker to get back from the PO. Mike, from the mountain view motel, who refused to take money for any ride drove us back to the trail and we were hiking by noon. The first seven or so miles were uneventful road walking on dirt car trail past cattle. We then followed the state line which is a barbed wire fence for a couple miles. After a decent climb, we heard bells. Then barking. A few feet later a large herd of sheep came running around from nowhere. I immediately grabbed a stick because I knew there would be sheep herding dogs and I wasn't in the mood to be barked at or aggressively screwed with. This big ol' white dog came up smelled me and let me pet him so we were all good. Coming out of the trees we came across a pack horse and a Hispanic man who I'm assuming spoke no english on a horse as well. We exchanged nods and a wave and went along our way. Spins and I got to camp, which was the only on trail water since town made dinner and called it a night.

Day 47 - Bones

August 4th

18.1 Miles

Up In the Pines Near the Red Conglomerates

It was a late morning to start out and it was uphill for miles. Nothing but switchbacks but it was all ok because today had a nice surprise in store for us about six miles in. About a quarter mile off trail right near an abandoned limestone mine was a small vertical cave which, according to the Ley map the legend is that in the winter the cave would cover with a ow and Bison would fall in and die leaving piles of bones on the bottom. I could t pass that up. We got there and climbed down a narrow cave to the bottom which was littered with bones so much so that it was pretty much the floor. Now I don't know my bones too well but they looked more like elk but there were no skulls to really tell. My guess is that mine workers dumped the meat stripped bodies of animals they shot down there which would seem more logical but the folklore definitely sounds more enticing. 

That afternoon we hiked around and down more cross country meeting a few more nobos including Raisins who I met at the Saufleys on the PCT last summer. As we climbed storm clouds formed and the sun was setting. We gazed over to a distant saddle and saw 50 elk's silhouettes along the sky. The sunset was wonderful but we were hiking cross country so when it got close to dark we called it a night because navigation would be way to much work.

Day 60 & 61 - Double Zero in DEW-boyz

August 17th & 18th

0 Miles

Black Bear Inn

Got sucked in for two days here. There are countless VHS tapes of classics here at the hotel, Spins got herself a Stetson cowgirl hat, we ate boatloads more food, planned our route for the wind river range, figured out the fire detour ahead, and did I mention the Jackalope...yeah you can ride it. This town is the best on the CDT so far. We'll be leaving tomorrow though to start the Wind River Range which will be some of the most scenic hiking on the whole trail. I'm pretty excited!!

Day 59 - To Dubois..Home of the Jackalope

August 16th

8 Miles

Black Bear Motel

Spins and I got up earlyish and hike uphill the whole way to Togwotee Lodge. I guess when you take the shortcut alternate its got to be a little tougher to equal out the miles cut off. We got the the lodge and started hitching. The hitching was pretty bleak with nothing but vacationers who almost never pick you up. Eventually we got a ride from some cool people from Colorado down to Dubois where we posted up at the Black Bear Inn which is run by Liz who is sooooo nice and accommodating to us hikers. The food here is great, the people super nice and friendly and the town even has a gear shop. There a a bunch if hikers in town...we'll see if we get sucked into a zero tomorrow.

Day 46 - Trailess Around Cottonwood Mountain

August 3rd

21.1 Miles

Deadman Lake

This morning got off to a cold but dry start. The trail faded out immediately and Ley suggested not to follow the cairns or bear creek map route and gave general directions. That led to an interesting morning...we got off to a good start crossed a open high grassland and went to far left and found ourselves on a steep face with one way to go: down. Way down steeply. We managed to slide down the area to flatter ground and saw a post far off on a saddle in the distance. Bushwhacking through sage there, we came up to a very steep uphill that was trailess with a tiny little trail marker at the top. At the top I faced Cottonwood mountain with the option to go up over even across on game trails or down and around on the 'official route'. None of these options had actual designated trail. We we t down and around after coming up to get to this point I had already had my fill of climbing for the day.

After going around Cottonwood mountain we ran into bunches of nobos and talked with them all a good while. Water was relatively scarce and we still had not really hike on trail. This afternoon was spent hiking through valley with actual trail and we then whipped around and up a side ridge. We picked up a jeep road which was the old CDT and led us steep down to Deadman Lake where we ate late, made a small fire, and went to sleep on nice level campground quality space.